We arrived in Croatia from Rome, Italy, where vegan options were plentiful, fresh and delicious and the supermarkets well stocked. We were unsure what our options would be as we touched down in Dubrovnik and set out to explore part of the Balkan region for a couple of months. Our time in Croatia was mostly spent along the Dalmatian Coast and on the Istrian Peninsula. We enjoyed a good mix of small villages and big towns, and aside from one small island hamlet (Sobra on Mljet Island), were able to find everything we needed to make our usual healthy, happy vegan meals and even enjoyed several meals out.

Food shopping

After finding and settling into our accommodation, the next order of business in a new place is to orient ourselves regarding food. Since we mostly stay in places that have kitchen facilities, orientation usually entails locating the nearest grocery store or supermarket to stock up on supplies. It’s always exciting to explore a new store to see the selection of vegan-friendly products, along with local fruits and vegetables.

Picking up soy milk at one of the many Konzum stores across Croatia

In Dubrovnik we found a supermarket called Konzum just down the street from our lodging, near to the main bus station and port. Konzum is a large Croatian supermarket chain and we were delighted to find a large “health food section” with all of our usual requirements: soy milk, oats, muesli, peanut butter, nuts, seeds, dates, and more. We subsequently found that other supermarket chains such as Tommy, Studenac and Pemo also carried most of the basics, but we generally shopped at Konzum since we found their selection, prices and freshness of produce to be the best. Pricing for typical items: 1l soy milk – 18 Kuna (C$3.30); 250ml peanut butter – 10 Kuna (C$1.85); bread loaf – 8 Kuna (C$1.50); 1kg bananas – 10 Kuna (C$1.85).

Our most challenging few days as it relates to food was on the island of Mljet. We initially decided to stay in the town of Sobra which is near the main ferry dock in the centre of the island. Unfortunately we were surprised to find that the small food store was very poorly stocked with supplies and almost no fresh produce. There are a handful of restaurants but their offerings are quite poor and we were not too thrilled about eating bland pizza and pasta for lunch and dinner every day!

So we decided to move to another village on the island called Polace at the entrance to the National Park, and were ecstatic to find two well stocked food markets (with soy milk no less!) as well as plentiful supplies of fruit and vegetables. There is also a bakery that makes the most amazing multi-grain bread (even better than the French and Italian breads we recently indulged in!). We’d certainly recommend Polace as a base if you visit Mljet and wish to enjoy nature while continuing with your plant-based diet. Although we opted to cook all of our meals in our apartment, there are a number of restaurants along the waterfront in Polace, many of which would be able to whip up a vegan salad, sandwich, pizza or pasta. You can read more about what we got up to on Mljet here.

Bean chili over baked potatoes – one of our favourite meals enjoyed in Polace on our lovely patio! And of course, wine with lunch (a very civilized habit acquired in France)!

The bakery or “pekara” in Polace on Mljet Island

One of the very well stocked supermarkets in Polace

We also found a few natural/health food stores called “bio” shops in Dubrovnik and Split. These shops were very well stocked with local and imported natural foods, home and beauty products. We enjoyed a rare treat of tofu and quinoa purchased from one of the bio shops called Trgovina Refužo in Split, just a few steps away from the Riva. It was really great to chat to the store owner who has been vegan for many years and is working hard to promote a plant-based lifestyle in Croatia. The shop is very well stocked with nuts, seeds, grains and flours in bulk bins, along with meat alternatives such as tofu and seitan, and non-dairy milks. There is also a gluten-free product section. Here’s a list of the other bio shops we found:

Bio and Bio – Dubrovnik

Bio and Bio - Split

Zdravi Bili – Split

What an unexpected treat to find tofu and quinoa in Croatia! We had a great time checking out bio store Trgovina Refužo in Split

Where possible, we also seek out markets to buy our food. We hoped that Croatia would be similar to the other European countries we’d recently visited. We were not disappointed by the produce markets, fruit and vegetable vendors and bakeries in every place we visited! Not only are the local ingredients fresher and more tasty, they tend to be cheaper too – especially when purchased at places where locals shop. Local fruits include mandarin oranges, grapes, pomegranates, apples, limes, melons and lemons. Local vegetables include potatoes (the best we’ve had!), chard (how we’ve missed you!), cabbage, zucchinis, lettuces, cucumber and tomatoes (yes, a fruit, but more suited to the vegetable list somehow!). Anything imported is quite a bit more expensive, but there is a good variety.

The “green market” in Split next to Diocletian’s Palace (photo credit: www.taxisplitairport.com)

Our typical breakfast consists of oats or muesli/granola with soy milk, nuts, dates, flax seeds, oat bran and banana. We had no problem finding any of these ingredients during our stay in Croatia. Lunches and dinners are usually interchangeable and we make large portions to allow for leftovers if we’re staying in one place for a few days. We generally make bean burritos, lentil stew, pasta with vegetable and tomato sauce, chickpea curry, soups and other dishes as we find available ingredients for a special treat (like tofu!).

Yummy lentil stew with fresh veggies over cous cous with a side of roasted beets

Eating out

We don’t eat out very often on this global adventure with its backpacker budget, but we do like to support local vegan restaurants when we can. In Split we discovered a wonderful spot called Makrovega, serving reasonably priced daily set vegan and vegetarian menus, along with light meals such as veggie burgers, burritos and sandwiches. They also have a delicious variety of dessert items and fresh cold-pressed juices. There’s also another option in Split called Vege which is a take-out window located near the produce market. We didn’t get a chance to eat there, but wish we did! There is a popular vegetarian restaurant called Nishta inside the old city walls of Dubrovnik that we were hoping to try, but unfortunately it was closed on the day we visited the old town.

Lunch at Makrovega – we tried the burger and tofu burrito – both outstanding!

Generally we don’t have the luxury of choice for vegetarian or vegan restaurants, so we get creative, and work around the menu offerings, and sometimes, the language barrier! In Croatia, the most common restaurants are eateries called “konobas” run by local families serving mostly regional fare which is heavily weighted to meat and fish dishes. All of the restaurants we visited had pizza and pasta selections that could easily be made vegan, along with amazing vegetable side dishes. These restaurants offered up the best meals:

Sperun – Split (very heavy on seafood and local fare, but there are pasta options; we ordered the spaghetti with tomato sauce and a side order of each of the boiled and grilled veggies – wonderful flavours and generous portions but slightly heavy on the olive oil for our liking)

Quaint local restaurant Sperun, hidden off the main tourist promenade in Split

Bistro Toc – Split (we asked for a vegan version of the burrito with tofu and avocado instead of meat and cheese – very happily accommodated and delicious too!)

Pizzeria Napoli – Labin (we initially wanted to try a regional pasta dish called fuzi which is served with locally grown white truffles, but unfortunately the dish is made with cream and cheese; we opted instead for a veggie pizza with no cheese – again, happily accommodated and we weren’t disappointed!)

Pizzeria Napoli on the main square in Labin on the Istrian Peninsula

Gorgeous, colourful vegan pizza enjoyed on the patio overlooking the main square in Labin

The verdict

Being vegan in Croatia was much easier than we expected it to be. This is largely attributed to the availability of varied supplies in the supermarkets as well as our ability (and interest) to cook for ourselves. Eating out for every meal would be possible, but one of vegan inclination would be limited to pizza and pasta in most restaurants. There is also not very much ethnic diversity in the towns we visited, so typical options for vegans like Mexican, Thai or Japanese are not plentiful.

Hands down the easiest place to be vegan in Croatia is Split (compared to other larger towns we visited, including Dubrovnik, Zadar, Pula and Rovinj). Zagreb was not on our itinerary on this trip, but it’s likely that it would have more options than the rest of the country.

Best local food tried: Croatian chard (dark green leafy vegetable) and potatoes

Most surprising food experience: Well-stocked bio/natural food stores in bigger centres

Most challenging food experience: Understanding the language to convey or request vegan requirements

After 5 gorgeous (but expensive!) days in Rome, we boarded our friendly EasyJet flight bound for oceanside Dubrovnik in southern Croatia. Arriving at sunset gave us a spectacular vista over the hills, islands, and ocean that embrace this historical town with its walled old quarter. The handy Atlas airport shuttle bus ($7.50 each/one way) dropped us at the main bus terminal after giving us a glimpse of the romantic old town lit up at night.

Courtyard at Guesthouse Dada

Our accommodation at Guesthouse Dada was a mere 100m away from the bus station and we were delighted to discover how clean and well laid out our apartment was. We shared a bathroom and kitchen with one other double room, and had use of the courtyard and outdoor seating area. We discovered that private letting of accommodation is very common in Dubrovnik (and across Croatia apparently), and were greeted by many people at the bus station offering us accommodation or “sobe/apartman”. We were happy that we had pre-booked our accommodation via booking.com, but it would have been possible to secure accommodation in a more informal fashion.

One of the many stray cats we encountered in Dubrovnik – this one was definitely the cutest and most curious!

The first day of our 3-night/2-day stay in Dubrovnik was quite typical for us – we put on our running shoes and headed out the door to explore our surroundings. We ran from the bus station past the port and around the peninsula to Babin Kuk and Lapad on an oceanfront path (part road, gravel and dirt). More details on our running adventures coming soon!

Port of Dubrovnik, with lovely water and dockside walking paths

After our morning run we set out on foot to find a beach and visit the famous old town. Dubrvonik has a number of “beach” options, ranging from pebbly, sandy inlets to rocky outcroppings with slabs of concrete for sunbathing. Most beaches are within walking distance of the old town, but there are also regular buses that run to various parts of town and beaches (cost: 12 Kuna at newsstand or 15 Kuna on the bus). On this outing we found two swimming areas (not really beaches in the typical sense!): one near Lapad next to a large hotel/casino complex and one called Dance Beach near Gradac Park. Both have gorgeous views of the ocean and its lovely blue green water. Dance Beach is more tranquil and a great spot to catch a gorgeous sunset.

A little church perched on the cliff above Dance Beach

Wedged between our two beach experiences was our visit to Dubrovnik‘s walled old town which is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Dating to the 7th Century, this spectacular site was truly delightful to explore. We wandered down the marbled main avenue and wound up and away along stepped side streets into the maze of the locally inhabited parts of the town. We also made our way to the outside the of walls and walked alongside the ocean and marina. Dubrovnik is one of the filming locations for the popular TV show Game of Thrones, and we can see why the producers picked this spot! It’s captivating, alluring, and authentic.

Old town fortifications

Exploring the lane ways with restaurants, hotels, shops, tour agencies and residences

Stairs winding up and away from the town centre

Busy inside the walls!

The marble paved central avenue

Intricate detailing so well preserved

Gorgeous contrast of blue skies and white buildings with the characteristic terra-cotta tile roofs of the region

So many lanes to explore!

Evidence of daily life in the old town

Nature finds a way

Pile, one of two entrance gates to the old town

The old town within its walled perimeter

On our second day we decided to try another beach closer to the old town. Banje Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Dubrovnik, with its clear water and beautiful views of the old town and islands across the bay. The beach itself is quite pebbly with sandy spots and lots of rocks for lounging on. We got a good dose of Vitamin D while drinking ice cold Croatian beer, followed by cooling dips in the Adriatic. A very successful beach outing indeed!

Pebbly Banje Beach with the old town in the background

Beach time Croatia-style on the Adriatic

Smiles all around on a sunny, clear water kinda day!

Our initial idea for our time on the southern Dalmatian coast was to spend a few days in Dubrovnik followed by a few hops around the larger islands in the region. Due to the end of the summer season, we discovered that the frequency and ease of ferry travel was limited. This turned out to be a very happy circumstance!

Instead of moving around from island to island, we chose to visit the small and less populated island of Mljet, featuring Mljet National Park with a much quieter pace than some of the larger islands in the region. We travelled from Dubrovnik to Mljet with the G&V Ferry Line on the foot passenger-only catamaran. Tickets are purchased a half hour before departure at a cost of 60 Kuna one way per person. Once we arrived on the island, we knew that we’d find peace and tranquility in the natural beauty of the surroundings. And so we decided to stay on Mljet for 11 days, splitting our time between the main port of Sobra and the village of Polace.

Travel day at the ferry dock!

The ferry in dock waiting to depart for Mljet

The village of Sobra is a quiet place with few services and a very basic grocery market. Contrary to guidebooks suggesting it’s the centre of the island, Sobra has limited facilities and no public transport. Despite this, we decided to stay for three nights and enjoy the quiet surroundings. We stayed at Guesthouse Sobra in a room with a lovely view of the bay from the sunny terrace. We enjoyed the close access to a swimming/sunning spot and the company of our new Australian friend, Dennis. We ventured out one day for a 32km run to one end of the island and back, breaking up the distance half way to enjoy a well-earned cold beer and a dip in the enchanting blue water at Saplunara.

Idyllic setting in Sobra

The pathway to our lodging

View from our patio across the bay and the village of Sobra

Quiet morning for reflection on a still bay in Sobra

Beautiful quiet bay near the village of Saplunara

We moved on from Sobra by ferry to Polace, situated closer to the entrance of the national park to give us greater access to running terrain as well as better food supplies with two well-stocked grocery stores. We took a chance and decided not to pre-book accommodation since online options were limited and far more expensive than we expected. This turned out to be a terrific decision. We stepped off the ferry and encountered a number of locals waiting to offer their accommodation for rent. We agreed to view one of the apartments close to the ferry dock, and we were thrilled with the location, space, and price. We happily completed the necessary administration and settled in. This included completing the mandatory tourist accommodation cards that are stamped by local authorities. Kudos to Richard for his gut instinct to select our friendly landlord!

The village of Polace with Roman palace ruins

Our home and comfy terrace for 8 days

View to the left of our terrace

Our eight days in Polace were terrific. Set against the ruins of an ancient Roman palace, the village is situated within the national park, which makes up almost a third of the island. There are amazing trails, two salt water lakes, a restored monastery on an island within a lake and historic villages to explore. We spent most days running in the morning to see different parts of the park, and then relaxing around one of the two lakes in the afternoons. Aside from one day of rain, the weather was sunny, warm and humid – still cool enough for running but hot enough for lazing on rocks and swimming in our birthday suits!

Clear water and pine tree lined shores of the large lake (Veliko Jezero)

Our favourite sheltered rock perch on the shore of the large lake

The monastery of Santa Maria built on an island within the large lake

Wayfinding in the park is very clear and the forest trail system is equally well marked

The beautiful turquoise waters of the small lake (Malo Jezero)

Not all beaches are suitable for naturists! FKK is the code for nude beaches in Croatia

Park entrance is 90 Kuna per person and is valid for the duration of your stay in the region. There are regular shuttle buses that transport visitors to Pristaniste, the main entrance and one of the launch points for the boat across the lake to the monastery. All bus and boat transportation is included in the entrance fee. Bike and kayak rentals are available, but we preferred to explore on foot. This was a very easy way to get around even when we weren’t running, as many trails and roads connect short distances within the park.

Island foliage

A quiet spot outside the monastery

Architectural detail on the exterior of the monastery

A nice spot to have a little rest!

About to enjoy one of our many yummy meals on our terrace with a spot of Croatian wine

Bike rentals are everywhere on the island

Our apartment was incredibly comfortable and clean, and perfectly located with an ocean view patio and close to the park entrance and grocery store. We really enjoyed the setting and pace of the village, and for the first time on this crazy journey, felt that we had time to meditate, read and write, in addition to our usual running and exploration activities. It was also great to visit at the end of the summer season with fewer tourists and boat traffic. We’re going to miss our island oasis on Mljet but are looking forward to exploring what else Croatia has to offer, starting with Split, the capital city of the Dalmatia region.

Departure morning at 4am to catch the bus to the ferry dock