Team Eat.Run.See continued our exploration of Patagonia at the southern tip of South America. After a mind-blowing adventure in the Patagonia region of Chile, we crossed the border to see its Argentinian counterpart. TRAIL Magazine gave us the opportunity to write about our experiences as we ate and ran our way through this dramatic and breathtaking part of the world:

TRAIL Issue 20: Glorious Glaciers of Argentina

We also covered this region in greater detail in this blog article.

If you’d like to enjoy the full magazine packed with awesome trail goodness, pick up a copy at supermarkets or bookstores in South Africa, or buy a digital copy online via one of these links:

Zinio / iTunes / Magzter

We’re once again incredibly proud and excited that we’re featured in TRAIL, South Africa’s leading trail running publication. The latest issue continues our involvement as regular contributors, as we share and remember tales from the trails of our global adventure.

The latest TRAIL magazine featuring another Eat.Run.See adventure has just been published! In this issue we share our experiences running in three regions of Croatia in Eastern Europe. If you’d like to read more about our adventures in this beautiful, diverse, and welcoming country, we cover Croatia in greater detail (and with many more stunning images!) on our blog here.

Click on the link below for our article as it appears in the magazine:

TRAIL 16 – Eat.Run.See Awed by Croatia

If you’d like to enjoy the full magazine packed with awesome trail goodness, pick up a copy at supermarkets or bookstores in South Africa, or buy a digital copy online via one of these links:

Zinio: https://www.zinio.com/magazine/TRAIL/pr-500650714/cat-cat1960090#/

iTunes: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/trail-magazine-sa/id979830150?mt=8

We’re once again incredibly proud and excited that we’re featured in TRAIL, South Africa’s leading trail running publication. The latest issue continues our involvement as regular contributors, as we share tales from the trails that we explore and experience on our global adventure.

Click me to read our article as it appears in the magazine

The latest TRAIL magazine featuring another Eat.Run.See adventure has just been published! In this issue we share our amazing experience in Chilean Patagonia; running and hiking through pristine wilderness in Torres del Paine National Park in the far south of Chile. If you’d like to read more about our adventures in Patagonia, we cover Chile and Argentina in greater detail (and with many more beautiful images!) on our blog.

Click on the link below for our article as it appears in the magazine:

TRAIL 15 – Eat.Run.See Loves Life in Breathtaking Patagonia

If you’d like to enjoy the full magazine packed with awesome trail goodness, pick up a copy at supermarkets or bookstores in South Africa, or buy a digital copy online via one of these links:

Zinio: http://ca.zinio.com/www/browse/product.jsp?rf=sch&productId=500650714

iTunes: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/trail-magazine-sa/id979830150?mt=8

We’re once again incredibly proud and excited that we’re featured in TRAIL, South Africa’s leading trail running publication. The latest issue continues our involvement as regular contributors, as we share tales from the trails that we explore and experience on our global adventure.

 Dubrovnik

The old (walled) town of Dubrovnik doubles as King’s Landing in television’s Game of Thrones. One can see some of the impressive architecture showcased in this TV show from various vantage points around town, and this adds a pretty neat dimension to the views that are available on a Dubrovnik road run. Our first run took us from our accommodation near the main bus terminal (often major bus terminals are located in the sketchiest parts of town, but this is not true of Dubrovnik) around the port and marina on the sea front through Babin Kuk, the classy resort area of Lapad, through a unexpected park (which threw a neat little trail with a bit of vertical gain our way) back to the road around the marina and on to our great little spot at Guest House Dada for a total of ~12km (route pictured below – check out the “Move” on the Suunto Movescount website). The weather was great, the locals encountered along the way were friendly and all in all we both had a great run. Little did we know that, running-wise, things were only going to get better in this wonderful part of the world.

Suunto Movescount Map of Dubrovnik run

While in Dubrovnik we also did a speed workout, running 500m repeats along the sea front along the marina (route below). We recommend an early start to minimize the foot traffic encountered, but the flat, smooth terrain is well suited to faster running.

Marina area – good spot for short speed intervals

Mljet

On the main highway, Mljet

After 2 nights in Dubrovnik we headed over to the small island of Mljet by ferry. We were very excited at the prospect of running on this beautiful little island as roughly one third of the island area consists of the stunningly beautiful Mljet National Park replete with gorgeous lakes and a myriad off-road paths and trails.

Access to the park (which is located on the west side) is best done via the bustling and well serviced (we even found soy milk!) village of Polace, but we first wanted to explore the eastern (and southern) parts of the island and thus we opted to spend a few nights in the less bustling and less well serviced (no soy milk!) village of Sobra.

From Sobra, which is located roughly in the “center” of the island, we did an explorer’s run to Saplunara, another beach town on the easternmost tip of the island. This run was around 16km, one way, along a well maintained, but very quiet, highway. The run offered spectacular views of the island and the Adriatic seas around the coast, and the road surface was really good, providing yet another a wonderful road running experience. It should be noted, though, that there is rarely a flat stretch on this 16km trot to Saplunara (see the Movescount moves here and here), and the total vertical gain, one way, is 340m.

Upon reaching Saplunara, however, a wonderful beach oasis awaits the hot and weary runner! We spent a lovely, leisurely hour or two swimming in the crystal clear, blue Adriatic waters, sunbathing, and eating fruit purchased from a well stocked local market before tackling the same 16km stretch back to Sobra. A highly recommended road run to anybody who doesn’t shy away from the odd 32+km day with a bit of vertical gain thrown in.

View along the run to Saplunara

View along the run to Saplunara

Mid run break and dip in the Adriatic (at Saplunara)

Partial route from Sobra to Saplunara

Partial route from Sobra to Saplunara

But the absolute running highlight was exploring the Mljet National Park. What made the park especially well suited to running is the fact that in addition to the many trails to select from, some quite technical and steep, there are also lots of paved tracks which allows for some of the best road running either of us has ever had the pleasure of doing. The paved tracks run along the perimeter(s) of the two lakes that dominate the park’s features, and offer non-stop, fantastic turquoise water views. The running surface is very good and the track is quite level.

Exploring the trails in the park is easy and rewarding. Trails are well marked and most are well maintained as well. We did find at least one trail which doesn’t seem to receive too much attention; there were several downed trees to climb over on this trail but it was still very easy to follow. There are maps available for purchase at the park entrances, and there are maps on large signposts at a few locations around the park. We took a picture of the park’s trail layout and found it sufficient to explore the park. The fact that the park’s geography is dominated by the two large lakes makes it relatively easy to remain oriented while on the trails.

We ran one longish exploration run (see map below), which provided some gnarly, technical single track, some flowing, wide single track and awe inspiring views.

17km Mljet National Park run

All the pictures below were taken on this 17km run:

Richard enjoying a sweet line along this part of the trail

Trails are marked with these white and red markings

Sometimes one must stop to take it all in

The shimmering Adriatic

Bev enjoying herself on one of the wide, flowing sections

Parts of the trail were very rocky, but runnable

While we loved the trails, we are currently training for the Athens Marathon The Authentic coming up in November, and thus ran a few tempo and interval runs on the paved tracks around the lakes too.

We found the Mljet National Park to be a peaceful sanctuary to explore and enjoyed many miles of running bliss during our 8-day stay in Polace.

After 5 gorgeous (but expensive!) days in Rome, we boarded our friendly EasyJet flight bound for oceanside Dubrovnik in southern Croatia. Arriving at sunset gave us a spectacular vista over the hills, islands, and ocean that embrace this historical town with its walled old quarter. The handy Atlas airport shuttle bus ($7.50 each/one way) dropped us at the main bus terminal after giving us a glimpse of the romantic old town lit up at night.

Courtyard at Guesthouse Dada

Our accommodation at Guesthouse Dada was a mere 100m away from the bus station and we were delighted to discover how clean and well laid out our apartment was. We shared a bathroom and kitchen with one other double room, and had use of the courtyard and outdoor seating area. We discovered that private letting of accommodation is very common in Dubrovnik (and across Croatia apparently), and were greeted by many people at the bus station offering us accommodation or “sobe/apartman”. We were happy that we had pre-booked our accommodation via booking.com, but it would have been possible to secure accommodation in a more informal fashion.

One of the many stray cats we encountered in Dubrovnik – this one was definitely the cutest and most curious!

The first day of our 3-night/2-day stay in Dubrovnik was quite typical for us – we put on our running shoes and headed out the door to explore our surroundings. We ran from the bus station past the port and around the peninsula to Babin Kuk and Lapad on an oceanfront path (part road, gravel and dirt). More details on our running adventures coming soon!

Port of Dubrovnik, with lovely water and dockside walking paths

After our morning run we set out on foot to find a beach and visit the famous old town. Dubrvonik has a number of “beach” options, ranging from pebbly, sandy inlets to rocky outcroppings with slabs of concrete for sunbathing. Most beaches are within walking distance of the old town, but there are also regular buses that run to various parts of town and beaches (cost: 12 Kuna at newsstand or 15 Kuna on the bus). On this outing we found two swimming areas (not really beaches in the typical sense!): one near Lapad next to a large hotel/casino complex and one called Dance Beach near Gradac Park. Both have gorgeous views of the ocean and its lovely blue green water. Dance Beach is more tranquil and a great spot to catch a gorgeous sunset.

A little church perched on the cliff above Dance Beach

Wedged between our two beach experiences was our visit to Dubrovnik‘s walled old town which is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Dating to the 7th Century, this spectacular site was truly delightful to explore. We wandered down the marbled main avenue and wound up and away along stepped side streets into the maze of the locally inhabited parts of the town. We also made our way to the outside the of walls and walked alongside the ocean and marina. Dubrovnik is one of the filming locations for the popular TV show Game of Thrones, and we can see why the producers picked this spot! It’s captivating, alluring, and authentic.

Old town fortifications

Exploring the lane ways with restaurants, hotels, shops, tour agencies and residences

Stairs winding up and away from the town centre

Busy inside the walls!

The marble paved central avenue

Intricate detailing so well preserved

Gorgeous contrast of blue skies and white buildings with the characteristic terra-cotta tile roofs of the region

So many lanes to explore!

Evidence of daily life in the old town

Nature finds a way

Pile, one of two entrance gates to the old town

The old town within its walled perimeter

On our second day we decided to try another beach closer to the old town. Banje Beach is one of the most popular beaches in Dubrovnik, with its clear water and beautiful views of the old town and islands across the bay. The beach itself is quite pebbly with sandy spots and lots of rocks for lounging on. We got a good dose of Vitamin D while drinking ice cold Croatian beer, followed by cooling dips in the Adriatic. A very successful beach outing indeed!

Pebbly Banje Beach with the old town in the background

Beach time Croatia-style on the Adriatic

Smiles all around on a sunny, clear water kinda day!

Our initial idea for our time on the southern Dalmatian coast was to spend a few days in Dubrovnik followed by a few hops around the larger islands in the region. Due to the end of the summer season, we discovered that the frequency and ease of ferry travel was limited. This turned out to be a very happy circumstance!

Instead of moving around from island to island, we chose to visit the small and less populated island of Mljet, featuring Mljet National Park with a much quieter pace than some of the larger islands in the region. We travelled from Dubrovnik to Mljet with the G&V Ferry Line on the foot passenger-only catamaran. Tickets are purchased a half hour before departure at a cost of 60 Kuna one way per person. Once we arrived on the island, we knew that we’d find peace and tranquility in the natural beauty of the surroundings. And so we decided to stay on Mljet for 11 days, splitting our time between the main port of Sobra and the village of Polace.

Travel day at the ferry dock!

The ferry in dock waiting to depart for Mljet

The village of Sobra is a quiet place with few services and a very basic grocery market. Contrary to guidebooks suggesting it’s the centre of the island, Sobra has limited facilities and no public transport. Despite this, we decided to stay for three nights and enjoy the quiet surroundings. We stayed at Guesthouse Sobra in a room with a lovely view of the bay from the sunny terrace. We enjoyed the close access to a swimming/sunning spot and the company of our new Australian friend, Dennis. We ventured out one day for a 32km run to one end of the island and back, breaking up the distance half way to enjoy a well-earned cold beer and a dip in the enchanting blue water at Saplunara.

Idyllic setting in Sobra

The pathway to our lodging

View from our patio across the bay and the village of Sobra

Quiet morning for reflection on a still bay in Sobra

Beautiful quiet bay near the village of Saplunara

We moved on from Sobra by ferry to Polace, situated closer to the entrance of the national park to give us greater access to running terrain as well as better food supplies with two well-stocked grocery stores. We took a chance and decided not to pre-book accommodation since online options were limited and far more expensive than we expected. This turned out to be a terrific decision. We stepped off the ferry and encountered a number of locals waiting to offer their accommodation for rent. We agreed to view one of the apartments close to the ferry dock, and we were thrilled with the location, space, and price. We happily completed the necessary administration and settled in. This included completing the mandatory tourist accommodation cards that are stamped by local authorities. Kudos to Richard for his gut instinct to select our friendly landlord!

The village of Polace with Roman palace ruins

Our home and comfy terrace for 8 days

View to the left of our terrace

Our eight days in Polace were terrific. Set against the ruins of an ancient Roman palace, the village is situated within the national park, which makes up almost a third of the island. There are amazing trails, two salt water lakes, a restored monastery on an island within a lake and historic villages to explore. We spent most days running in the morning to see different parts of the park, and then relaxing around one of the two lakes in the afternoons. Aside from one day of rain, the weather was sunny, warm and humid – still cool enough for running but hot enough for lazing on rocks and swimming in our birthday suits!

Clear water and pine tree lined shores of the large lake (Veliko Jezero)

Our favourite sheltered rock perch on the shore of the large lake

The monastery of Santa Maria built on an island within the large lake

Wayfinding in the park is very clear and the forest trail system is equally well marked

The beautiful turquoise waters of the small lake (Malo Jezero)

Not all beaches are suitable for naturists! FKK is the code for nude beaches in Croatia

Park entrance is 90 Kuna per person and is valid for the duration of your stay in the region. There are regular shuttle buses that transport visitors to Pristaniste, the main entrance and one of the launch points for the boat across the lake to the monastery. All bus and boat transportation is included in the entrance fee. Bike and kayak rentals are available, but we preferred to explore on foot. This was a very easy way to get around even when we weren’t running, as many trails and roads connect short distances within the park.

Island foliage

A quiet spot outside the monastery

Architectural detail on the exterior of the monastery

A nice spot to have a little rest!

About to enjoy one of our many yummy meals on our terrace with a spot of Croatian wine

Bike rentals are everywhere on the island

Our apartment was incredibly comfortable and clean, and perfectly located with an ocean view patio and close to the park entrance and grocery store. We really enjoyed the setting and pace of the village, and for the first time on this crazy journey, felt that we had time to meditate, read and write, in addition to our usual running and exploration activities. It was also great to visit at the end of the summer season with fewer tourists and boat traffic. We’re going to miss our island oasis on Mljet but are looking forward to exploring what else Croatia has to offer, starting with Split, the capital city of the Dalmatia region.

Departure morning at 4am to catch the bus to the ferry dock

The Comrades Marathon is a storied and treasured event in South Africa, with a history stretching all the way back to 1921 when Vic Clapham had the idea to honor the soldiers who fell during World War I. He endured a 2,700km march through East Africa during his service and he wanted to create an event that would represent a unique test of physical endurance to honor his World War I comrades. Since the first run on May 24, 1921, 300,000 runners have lined up to start this epic race and pay tribute to Vic Clapham’s vision.

Comrades House, Pietermaritzburg

Vic Clapham, founder of the Comrades Marathon

Getting ready

The road to Comrades officially started with our running the Goodlife Fitness Victoria marathon on October 12, 2013. The Victoria Marathon was our qualifying race which would determine our seeding for the Comrades start. Seeding at Comrades is important since the race is run from gun to gun, with timing chips being used only to record that you crossed each timing point and also to record when you cross the finish line. The race also has strict cut-off points and a final, often heartbreakingly brutal, 12-hour finish cut-off, the enforcement of which is non-negotiable as an official walks onto the finish line and fires a gun at exactly 12 hours. Whoever has not crossed the line, whether one second or one hour from the line, is not considered a finisher. Starting the race with a low seeding can mean a delay of up to 10 minutes before even crossing the start line due to the large number of runners – over 14,000. In other words, running a good qualifier is a very good idea.

Unfortunately our plans to run a sub 4-hour marathon at Victoria fell apart at the 32km mark of that race when both of us had the wheels fall off as we were just not ready to run a hard 42.2km hot on the heels of our Squamish50 50 miler trail ultra in August. Our resulting seeding at Comrades put us in the second to last start corral and we lost over 7 minutes at the start.

Notwithstanding our disappointing seeding we had a good buildup leading to Comrades, running and hiking many miles in the most fantastic training locations imaginable: Peru (read about our Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu here), Patagonia (report on our 6 day trek in Torres del Paine coming soon!!), Ipanema and Copa Cabana Beaches in Rio de Janeiro, Cape Town (Table Mountain and the very impressive 56km Two Oceans Ultra Marathon). Having run just over 1,000km since January 1st, without any injuries, we both felt confident and ready.

Race day logistics

This year’s race was a down run, starting in Pietermaritzburg and finishing in Durban in South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province (the direction of the race alternates every year). The race headquarters are in Durban, and there are buses that shuttle runners the 90 odd km to the start in Pietermaritzburg on race morning. With a 5:30AM start, the buses leave Durban before 3AM, requiring a tough 2AM or earlier wake up call resulting in a very, very long day. We thus opted to find accommodation in Pietermaritzburg. We were very fortunate to be put in touch with a friend of a friend who very kindly and graciously hosted us the night before and also arranged a ride to the start. Thanks so much to Sanjay Harilall and his lovely wife Rochelle and their little guy Reon for taking such good care of us on the stressful night before a long run. Thanks also to our friend Hardy Maritz in Cape Town for connecting us.

At the finish we had our families cheering us home – what an amazing situation for both of us to have parents, siblings and nieces waiting at a race finish – not something that we often get to experience. It was fantastic! In addition to family waiting at the finish we also got support from Richard’s brother Andre and his family at the halfway mark and other friends near Hillcrest, 33km from the finish.

In trail ultras one gets used to running with running packs and carrying a fair amount of nutrition and water between aid stations that are typically 10 to 12km apart, but in the Comrades there are more than 45 “water tables” each with plenty of water and sports drink (Energade) available – some of them also provide real food like bananas and oranges. Knowing how tough this road run is (Richard completed the “up” run in 2011), we decided that we wanted to be as light as possible and run without any encumbrances like race packs. We chose to fuel ourselves with Gu gels (the totally awesome Salty Caramel and Peanut Butter flavors) and Perpetuem Solids (by Hammer Nutrition), which we could easily carry in our race belts. Our aim was to take in around 200 calories per hour, and drink to thirst – a tried and tested strategy, albeit, this time with new fuel (although we did run a few training runs with the new fuel). We also planned to take 3 Endurolyte capsules (also by Hammer Nutrition) per hour to to help keep our electrolyte levels healthy.

Race morning arrived after possibly the best pre-race sleep either of us have ever had. We went to bed at 8PM the night before and fell asleep right away, only waking up to our alarms at 3:20AM. We felt rested, relaxed and ready. Breakfast was an old standby: steel cut oats, with chia seeds and soy milk with a cup of coffee.

Our ride arrived at 4:39AM, cutting things a little fine for our 5:30AM start, considering the traffic and road closures around the centre of Pietermaritzburg. And sure enough there was a little bit of stress in the car about getting to the start before the “seeding pens” were to close at 5:15AM, which would mean starting right at the back of the 14,500 strong field. As it turned out we did end up getting stuck in the traffic and opted to walk the last 1km to the start, perhaps not the best way to get set for a 90km day! We both remained remarkably calm about this, since there really was absolutely nothing we could about it.

Once we got to our corral, we completed our final pre-race equipment checks, and before we knew it the traditional singing of the African song, Shosholoza, began, setting the tone for the epic day that lay ahead. Next up was Chariots of Fire and then the South African national anthem, followed closely by the traditional rooster crowing and the start gun.

The race was underway, and the excitement was palpable, but unfortunately we hadn’t started moving yet, and wouldn’t start moving for at least another 5 minutes. We finally crossed the start timing mat a full seven minutes (and another 800m farther) after the start gun – we were finally on our way! (We had thus already walked close to 2km before we even crossed the start line, when including the walk to the start area).

The first 8 to 9km was run in the dark through the city of Pietermaritzburg and the wide streets provided sufficient space for the large number of runners to move quite well. However this changed when we started approaching the outskirts of the city as the runners were squeezed onto the narrow two lane road leading up to the first of the five named hills, Polly Shortts.

Polly Shortts

The first timing mat was at 17.5km and we hit it in 2:12, a pace of 7:35min/km – on the slow side, but with the seven minute delay at the start, and the congested running, we were on the right track heading towards our goal pace of between 6:44 and 7:04min/km for a 10 hour to 10:30 finish.

Despite this year’s race designation as a “down” run into Durban, the first half of the course includes some serious uphill running. It’s not surprising then that the majority of the race’s big climbs occur in the first half and we were quite pleased to hit the half way mark in a time of 5:24 for an average pace of around 7:12min/km – our average pace was slowly approaching our goal pace and we were both feeling pretty good. At this point it felt like we were still running well within ourselves in order to have something left for the second half.

The down run elevation profile

The second half after Drummond started well, having gotten a great boost from seeing Richard’s brother, Andre, and his wife and two little girls on the side of the road. We cruised out of Drummond feeling strong and optimistic, knowing too that we would see more friends at Hillcrest in less than 10km. Running into Hillcrest requires going up and over another of the big five hills called Botha’s Hill. The course then drops viciously into Hillcrest before a small incline takes you out of town again.

Unexpectedly, Hillcrest, which Richard was looking forward to reaching all day, provided by far his worst moments of the day. We had been doing a good job of keeping up with our nutrition, alternately taking a Gu gel and three Perpetuem solids every half an hour, totaling 200 calories per hour (we did also drink the sports drink offered on the course which added more calories and more carbohydrates), but in the heat of the day, which reportedly reached 30 degrees celsius, we just couldn’t stomach the Perpetuem anymore. Richard hit a patch where puking seemed inevitable and his general disposition turned a degree or two cooler than optimal. Bev, as always, had morphed into “RaceBev” as soon the start gun went off and she was solid, steady and steaming ahead as if she was at the 5km mark and not the 56km mark.

Up to this point we had been following a 9:1 run:walk strategy, also used on our long training runs, (i.e. running for 9 minutes and then walking for 1 minute), but Bev quickly realized that Richard needed a mental boost and she very smartly suggested we drop to a 5:2 strategy. Using this approach, and finally getting a Gu Peanut Butter gel down, saw Richard battling through the Hillcrest low patch, emerging with a new lease on life, feeling (relatively) great and starting to smile as the kilometers ticked on by. The news that fellow Vancouverite, and all-around wonderful person, Ellie Greenwood, had won the women’s race provided yet another boost!

Ellie Greenwood receives her trophy

Hitting the Nedbank Green Mile at roughly 63km provided another major boost. Nedbank pulled out all the stops and provided a sensory experience second to none: there were huge puppets, singing and dancing cheerleaders, super loud music, the biggest South African flag imaginable, and before we knew it we were on Cowies Hill; the last of the named hills, and things were looking up with roughly 20km to go.

Nedbank Green Mile

Fatigue had set in though and even though we both felt great emotionally and had no tweaks or issues, we did start moving a little slower and our goal of 10 to 10:30 started slipping into 11 to 11:30 territory. All that remained now was a lot of steep downhill as we hit the N3 freeway on our way into Durban. Seeing the “Welcome to Durban” signpost provided another huge boost and the spectator quotient started rising sharply. There were people everywhere, cheering us on and providing welcome distraction with their loud cheers.

Exiting the freeway was followed by a cruel, short, but incredibly steep climb into the heart of Durban. This last climb did however provide the mental pleasure of knowing that the remaining 3km were all pancake flat. Soon after cresting this hill we saw the finish stadium for the first time and amazingly, our fatigue started to melt away.

We knew our families were waiting for us at the finish and we could now start to feel the lightness that comes with achieving a huge goal. Admittedly, we were not going to reach our 10:30 objective, or come anywhere close to it really, but finishing this run in under 11:30 was still going to be a major achievement for us.

We entered the stadium, reached for each other’s hands, as we had so many times throughout the day, and ran the final 350m holding hands; Richard grinning from ear to ear, as he was about to receive his “down run” medal to add to his “up run” one, and Bev fighting the overwhelming emotions of completing her first Comrades. Running the final 350m at Comrades is hard to describe, the crowd is huge and loud. Everybody is cheering, and the feeling of satisfied accomplishment is almost palpable – and unfortunately, the finish line finally comes too soon. Richard’s dad managed to see us coming down the final straight and got a great shot of us.

Upon crossing the line the first to see us was Bev’s dad, Scottie. Scottie, also a Comrades finisher, gave us a huge bear hug and the pride he was feeling for his daughter was undoubtedly visible all the way to the moon. Before long we were joined by my brother, sister-in-law, their two girls and my dad as well as Bev’s mom. What a wonderful way to end an epic 90km run.

Awesome post-race food at the international hospitality tent

Check out our medals

Nothing better than family at the finish!

On our visit to the region in March 2014, we explored the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile and also spent time near the town of El Chalten, within the Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. In this article we’ll focus on the Argentinian region of Patagonia, with the equally stunning Chilean region covered here.

After our outstanding experience in Chilean Patagonia, we were sure that nothing could compare to the vast uninhabited wilderness, lakes, glaciers, and mountains of Torres del Paine. Boy, were we wrong! The magnificent Los Glaciares National Park in Argentinian Patagonia quietly inhabits the landscape with slowly shifting ice fields, towering peaks, and wind swept trees and vegetation.

After a few days in El Calafate, gateway to Argentina’s Patagonia region, we headed to the small town of El Chalten, the trekking capital of Argentina. Easily accessed by 3-hour bus from El Calafate on Route 23, El Chalten is nestled within the Los Glaciares National Park and provides near doorstep access to a wide variety of mountain trails in the region leading to and through some of the most amazing scenery on the planet. Although the town is tiny, El Chalten has well stocked supermarkets, trekking gear shops, and many restaurants, bakeries and coffee shops. It also has an internet cafe and travel booking service centre. Don’t be alarmed by siesta time though – most stores and restaurants close from roughly 1-5pm.

The town of El Chalten seen from the Laguna Torre trailhead

We loved the simple and understated commitment to mountain exploration in El Chalten. The singular purpose of the town is to support the trekking community, making this a very easy place to find information and exchange grand stories of mountain adventures! Not to be outdone by those who prefer both feet on the ground, this region is also popular with rock and ice climbers.

So many trails, so little time! (oh, and a little Malbec to keep spirits up and hands warm on chilly Patagonian days!)

A few days of weather imposed downtime with extreme wind and rain (common in these parts!), gave us a chance to relax in our cozy hostel, Albergue Patagonia, and research the trail options in the area. Once the weather cleared we departed on our first mountain exploration run – to discover the majestic Mount Fitz Roy standing tall at 3,359m. The spectacular view of this massif is the reward at the turnaround of the 23km out and back Laguna de Los Tres trail with 1,000m of elevation gain. Starting at the edge of the town, the clearly marked trail winds up steadily along single track with varied terrain underfoot. At times hard packed dirt, other times rooty with thick bush, but always beautiful with the freshest mountain air imaginable.

Trailhead leading up to the best view of Mount Fitz Roy via Laguna de Los Tres trail

The view of Mount Fitz Roy in the distance – time to get a little closer!

The trail opens up and flattens somewhat when it traverses the Del Salto stream valley and follows the natural course of the stream passing through two campgrounds along the way. Natural viewpoints offer glimpses of the Fitz Roy peak, but it’s only by pressing on and up the final and very steep grind of almost a kilometer that you reach the trail terminus point at the edge of an old moraine ridge. From this vantage point you can attempt to make sense of the full frontal assault on your eyes: a crystal blue lagoon and eons of glacier pack pushing up against the towering Mount Fitz Roy alongside its less well known but no less striking siblings.

We made it! And what a reward for our efforts!

Team ERS takes a well earned rest before the descent

With the sun out, we basked in its warmth and the privilege of finding ourselves at this amazing juncture while eating our customary trail run snack of peanut butter and jam sandwiches. Fueled up for our return journey we reluctantly turned away from the breathtaking view and completed the trail in reverse. Our legs enjoyed the downhill as much as our minds celebrated the gift of wanderlust!

Resting at the end of the trail before heading back into El Chalten

There are numerous other trails to explore from the village of El Chalten. We ran a few shorter trails to a few easily accessible viewpoints, as well as one additional longer run. This 21km out and back trot with 600m of elevation gain took us along the undulating and relatively easy (albeit rocky) Laguna Torre trail to the lake of the same name fed by the Torre and Grande glaciers.

The Laguna Torre trailhead just above the town

Another gorgeous trail into the mountains

Richard wishing that Bev would stop taking so many photographs – and just run!

Here the mountain vistas are just as grand as Mount Fitz Roy with the jagged spire of Cerro Torre reaching above the rest of the Adela range at a height of 3,128m. If you’re lucky enough to arrive at this point on a clear day (we weren’t), the mythical Cerro Torre may be revealed to you. We had to settle for a brief glimpse of the spiky ridges before a wind storm swept in and literally blew us off our feet while a heavy blanket of cloud descended over the mountains and into the lake basin. We scrambled for cover under a rock shelf until the worst of the storm passed and then hightailed it back to the warmth and safety of our hostel. Another day well lived!

Approaching the jagged spires looming over Laguna Torre with Cerro Torre under cloud

Reaching Laguna Torre with hopes of clear skies

And then the wind picked up and we had to find shelter fast!

Notwithstanding the rough weather, it was an amazing day of trails, glaciers, and mountain bliss!

Overview

El Calafate is the gateway town to Los Glaciares National Park.

Regular buses run between El Calafate and El Chalten, a small town located in the park providing access to some of Argentina’s finest mountain trails.

This region is less structured than the Torres del Paine circuits in Chilean Patagonia, but multi-day adventures with overnight camping are possible if you are self-supported.

El Chalten is a perfect base for single day trail runs with options for accommodation and meals to suit all budgets.

After your trail adventures, don’t miss a visit to the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate.

Expect unpredictable and extreme weather conditions especially strong winds and quickly changing temperatures.

Bring layers and a good wind/rain jacket along with gloves, hat and neck covering.

Bring sunscreen and lip balm.

Best time to visit is October through March.

Links

www.losglaciares.com/en/calafate (general info)

www.elchalten.com (general info and maps)

www.losglaciares.com/en/parque/#1 (official park website)

www.americahostel.com.ar (hostel in El Calafate)

www.patagoniahostel.com.ar (hostel in El Chalten)

Patagonia, a vast and sparsely populated area (almost the same size as British Columbia), is located on the southern tip of South America, and is home to a dizzying array of breathtaking mountains, lakes, and glaciers. It extends into both Chile and Argentina, and owing to its remoteness and staggering beauty it is a remarkable place to experience true wilderness.

On our visit to the region in March 2014, we explored the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile and also spent time near the town of El Chalten, within the Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. In this article we’ll focus on Chilean Patagonia, with the equally stunning Argentinian region covered here.

To reach Torres del Paine we travelled from Santiago to Punta Arenas by air, and then bussed to Puerto Natales, the gateway town to the national park. We based ourselves in Puerto Natales for a few days to gather information, complete our planning, and purchase supplies for our trek. We stayed at Erratic Rock, an extremely welcoming and comfortable hostel with friendly people, oodles of knowledge, gear rentals, and scrumptious breakfasts with homemade bread and peanut butter. The hostel also allows returning guests to store bags and other valuables while in the park. We rented sleeping bags and mats from the hostel, and purchased our cooking and eating equipment from a supply store in the town. We had already purchased a small two-person tent in Santiago after calculating that renting a tent for five days would cost more than purchasing one.

Prepping food rations for our 6-day trek at Erratic Rock

Bev ready to set off on the early bus into the park from Puerto Natales

We planned a six day adventure in Torres del Paine, which would see us hike and run along the famous ‘W’ trek which remains just south of the Cordilerra del Paine massif. We initially planned to run the complete 110km ‘O’ circuit, which essentially circumnavigates the massif. Unfortunately we had to opt for a more conservative route, due to logistical difficulties exacerbated by cold weather challenges. So, out of necessity, we set out to complete the ‘W’, with plans to get in plenty of running on the gorgeous trails of this spectacular part of our planet. Over six days we completed the ‘W’ circuit – running more than half of it (a total of 40km or so) along with around 70km of “full pack” trekking with gear, food and camping equipment.

The ‘W’ circuit in Torres del Paine (credit: Lonely Planet)

About to get started with some serious weather ahead of us!

Excellent signposting and wayfinding along the track

We started our adventure at Laguna Amarga, the main entrance to the park. Using the pay-for-use shuttle bus service, we drove the first 10km into the park and then hiked 9km uphill to Campamento Torres for our first night in the park, encountering heavy winds and snow along the way. Campamento Torres is one of two free campsites along the ‘W’ in the park. We set up camp, and set off for our first short run up to the Base de las Torres, where we were treated to a private audience with the splendid granite spires that give the park its name (torres is Spanish for towers). This area is usually congested, and most trekkers arrive for sunrise or later in the evening owing to the logistics of how people move along the hiking routes. We arrived early and had a good 20 minutes in absolute silence to enjoy the company of this spectacular sight with a glorious sunset. An absolute highlight.

The clouds cleared and gave us a beautiful sunny view on the way to Campamento Torres

Our first night on the trail at the free campsite at Campamento Torres

Our little orange tent bracing for a windy night at Campamento Torres

Food mouse-proofing measures recommended at all campsites along the trail

The cooking shelter at Campamento Torres

Quiet time in the presence of the majestic Torres del Paine

The following morning we did the 9km hike back down to the campground Camping Las Torres near Refugio Torres from where we had planned a longer run north east towards Campamento Seron on what is known as the “back” of the ‘O’ circuit. The weather, however, was steadily deteriorating and before long we cut our planned two-hour run short, returning back to our tent after an hour in the now howling wind. It was beginning to dawn on us that wind was going to be a big part of our Torres del Paine experience. Notwithstanding the shortened run, it was still a gorgeous, non- technical single-track trail, which offered wide, sweeping views of open landscape in this part of the park.

Hiking back down from Campamento Torres

Time to hit the trails for a run!

Sweet single-track

That night the wind continued to gain strength, really whipping our tent around, and the following day turned out to be a write-off. It started raining, the wind was howling, and we had little choice but to stay bundled up in our tent for most of the day. We were thus forced to spend another night at Camping Las Torres. We learned later that the winds were at a sustained 70 to 80km/h, a strong gale, according to the Beaufort Scale.

Waiting out the bad weather inside our cozy tent

The food prep facilities at Camping Las Torres

The next day dawned clear, but with no break in the wind. After breaking down camp we hiked the 11km to the next overnight camp, Los Cuernos. It was a beautiful hike, along the northern shore of the magnificent Lago (lake) Nordenskjold. We couldn’t wait to get into our running gear to take in a run along the lakeshore. It was stunning. Unfortunately it was also cold and windy, and with sunset fairly early, we only covered about 5km out before being forced to make our way back to camp where we had to find a way to get warm and make dinner. Dinner was easy in the shelter of the refugio, but it turned out that we wouldn’t be warm again until some time the next day. That night was well below zero, and with our lightweight gear we felt it!

A beautiful morning and time to press on from Camping Las Torres

Setting up camp at Los Cuernos

A chilly but beautiful evening run from Los Cuernos campsite

Stunning sunset at Los Cuernos

Making dinner while trying to stay warm in the Los Cuernos shelter

The next morning we shook the ice off our tent, and set off to Refugio Paine Grande, a good 13km away. Along the way, we left our backpacks at Campamento Italiano and ran the 8km stretch up the “middle of the ‘W’” with the French Valley to our right and the magnificent Glacier del Frances to our left. This was a steep and technical run, offering gorgeous scenery, another major highlight. An out-and-back is required, though, due to the layout of the trail, giving a total of 16km before continuing on to Refugio Paine Grande, making this a rather long day with a total of 29km and a fair amount of climbing too with a total elevation gain of around 1,200m.

An icy layer on our tent in the morning after a freezing night

View from the French Valley

A special little rest on our 16-km out and back run up the French Valley with the breathtaking Glacier del Frances as our backdrop

Glacier del Frances just before the clouds spilled over into the valley

We decided to spend the night in a dorm at Refugio Paine Grande instead of camping as we were very cold the previous night and the overnight weather forecast did not look good. Our sparse and expensive digs for the night was at least a little more luxurious and warmer than being in a tent!

Warm and comfy in our dorm room at Refugio Paine Grande on our last night in the park

Our fantastic gas stove and versatile pot/kettle/serving dish in the communal kitchen at Refugio Paine Grande

The following day was our last day in the park and it was nothing short of spectacular. We put in a 24km out-and-back (just over 1,100m of elevation gain) as we ran up the left leg of the ‘W’ to just beyond Refugio Grey to take in the awesome Glacier Grey. Along the trail there were awesome views of Lago Grey with plenty of side options to reach higher ground for even more spectacular views. The trail was highly varied, all single-track, but ranging from easy, smooth running to highly technical, steep and rocky business. It was the perfect way to end our time in this most memorable place.

A glorious day for a long run in the mountains!

Glacier Grey in the distance

Pieces of ice floating on Lago Grey

Glacier Grey

The glacier stretches far beyond

The changing terrain along the way

Breathtaking!

What a day!

Upon returning to Refugio Paine Grande we caught the ferry across Lago Pehoe back to the park entrance. From here we bussed back to Puerto Natales, very happy to find a hot shower and cosy bed at Erratic Rock, the friendliest hostel we’d encountered on our travels thus far. And so we concluded one of our most memorable adventures with firm promises to return to explore more of this special place.

Waiting for the ferry to take us across Lago Pehoe to return to the park entrance

Our last views of the majestic mountains of Torres del Paine from the ferry – until next time!

Overview

Expect unpredictable and extreme weather conditions especially strong winds and quickly changing temperatures.

Bring layers and a good wind/rain jacket along with gloves, hat, and neck covering.

Bring sunscreen and lip balm.

Best time to visit is October through March.

Puerto Natales is the gateway town for Torres del Paine National Park.

Access Puerto Natales by bus from Punta Arenas (easy and cheap) or ferry from Puerto Montt (difficult and expensive but worth the effort).

Regular buses run between Puerto Natales and the park; buy tickets at any travel agent in town or at the bus station (slightly cheaper).

Entrance fee for the park for foreigners is $18,000 chilean pesos (USD $38) in high season and $5,000 chilean pesos (USD $10.50) in low season; this is a one-time fee per visit regardless of how long you stay in the park.

The W circuit can be completed by starting from either the east or west end, and there are logistical facilities to support either starting/ending point. There are many online resources that offer suggestions for each route, but ultimately your plans will be dictated by weather (as we discovered!). Be flexible and arrive with a good understanding of the route and terrain and carry a map at all times!

Stock up on food and camping gear (purchase and rental) in Puerto Natales as supplies are very limited in the park.

Erratic Rock Backpackers/Basecamp Rentals in Puerto Natales is your best bet for warm hospitality, clean and cosy dorm beds and good rental gear (tell Bill we sent you and make sure you attend their free daily orientation for all the best info and tips).

Camping is the cheapest accommodation in the park with tent and gear rentals available at each refugio (hostel/lodge).

If camping with your own gear, bring a quality lightweight sleeping mat (the ground is hard and cold!) and sleeping bag rated below zero degrees.

Bring a thin rope and zippered canvas bag to store and winch up food when in camp – those Patagonian mice will wreak havoc on your food supply if it’s on the ground or in your pack in your tent!

There are non-camping accommodation options at the refugios that offer a bed as well as food. However, it’s not cheap at an average of US$55 p/person p/night in a 4 or 6 person dormitory, plus another US$20 to US$30 p/meal. The refugios are managed by two companies: Vertice and Fantastico Sur.

Communal kitchen, shower and toilet facilities are available at every refugio.
 

Links

www.torresdelpaine.com (general info and maps)

www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl/en/ (official park website)

www.verticepatagonia.com (camping and lodging in park)

www.fantasticosur.com (camping and lodging in park)

www.erraticrock.com (hostel and gear rental)

Organized races

www.ultratrailtorresdelpaine.com

www.patagonianinternationalmarathon.com

After a relaxing couple of days in Corozal it was time to move into island mode and we set off for San Pedro on Ambergris Caye (the cayes are a series of small islands in the Caribbean Sea just off the east coast of Belize). Our original plan called for a reasonably priced ferry ride (on the Tunderbolt Line) over to San Pedro, but as mentioned in the post: “From Crooked Tree to Corozal” the ferry was out of service and we either had to fly over from Corozal or take a bus down to Belize City and catch a different ferry (The Belize Express) from there. Once we heard that the regional airline, Mayan Island Air, was offering a deal to match the usual Thunderbolt ferry prices we made the very easy decision to go by plane. And so we arrived in San Pedro on Ambergris Caye in style, not at all in backpacker mode, but by “jetting” in on a 3-seater Cessna 182. The flight over from Corozal was pretty cool, taking us the 70km or so towards the east in just over 20, scenic minutes. (Check out the video above to experience our bird’s-eye view of part of the flight:

Not quite a 747 :)

Somewhere over the east coast of Belize

San Pedro itself is a tiny, “vibey”, and loud, beach-side village with a (permanent) population of just over 13,000 people, and has been immortalized in pop culture by Madonna in her song “La Isla Bonita”. The entire island is tiny and most of the traffic on it is of the golf cart variety, and trust me, there is a lot of it on the streets on San Pedro – you actually have to leave the little “downtown core” before you can ease into the laid back island rhythm. And to be honest, we didn’t really find that rhythm here (we’ll only truly discover “laid back” once we hit Caye Caulker in a few day’s time). For such a small village we were really surprised by how busy it was!

Aah, island life

Beach side sights

Golf carts everywhere

The island has seen a fair amount of tourist related development in the past 20 years (which is about how long Madonna’s song has been around) and has become a bit of a resort and retirement community for relatively wealthy north Americans while the locals are still very poor by western standards, but all seem to get along well and there wasn’t any time that we felt uncomfortable.

Upon arrival we walked the 200 yards from the airstrip to the beach where we easily found our lodgings at a very basic, budget “hotel” called Ruby’s Hotel. Ruby’s is located right on the beach and we stationed ourselves here for three nights. We really enjoyed the location which afforded easy access to a few convenience stores and the beach, obviously.

Pretty awesome location

The location also proved to be Ruby’s downfall (at least for a couple of 40’ish-somethings like Bev and me), as there are a number of beach side bars located within a stone’s throw of Ruby’s and on both Saturday and Sunday nights we battled some seriously loud parties until around 3AM – not exactly awesome since we wanted to get up early for our runs (before the temperature started to rise).

Speaking of running, San Pedro (and Ambergris) proved to be rather runner non-friendly as there simply wasn’t much room to run and the streets that do exist there are busy (yeah, they’re only golf carts but the result of getting hit by one would still be unsatisfactory) and superbly uneven (crazy cobblestone). All that said, we did clock close to 30km over the few days in San Pedro.

Some of our running shoes…

All in all we enjoyed San Pedro, but after three nights we were ready to move on to what promised to be a more laid back spot: Caye Caulker.

Richard’s thumbs up: beach side hotel; awesome papayas; and yummy bean filled pupusas!

Mmm, papaya!

Bean filled pupusa

Richard’s thumbs down: super loud and semi-agressive sounding partying right next to our hotel

Bev’s thumbs up: swimming off the dock at Ramon’s Village

Caribbean Sea: awesome

Bev’s thumbs down: expensive and somewhat grungy village/island

The topic of what to pack for a trip like ours is always an interesting one, and we spent a great deal of time reading other travellers’ blogs looking for tips, tricks and advice for reducing overall volume and weight.

Bev packed and ready to go!

Richard packed and ready to go!

Having made the decision to travel with smaller backpacks (mine is 34 litres and Richard’s is 38 litres) than the average backpacker, we knew that we’d need to be very aggressive with our packing in order to make it all fit, while still providing everything we’d need for day-to-day living as well as running. Deciding to stay close to the summer season definitely helped reduce the volume of gear required, but we still opted to have at least one warm layer for early morning/evening activities as well as brushes with spring and fall around the globe.

Richard’s packing in progress

Everything ready to go into Bev’s pack

The lists below summarize what each of us packed. It feels like a lot to see it written down, and it’s amazing how it all fits into such small bags! At departure, my pack weighed 24.9 pounds while Richard’s weighed 22.7 pounds. We’ve since re-arranged a little bit to give Richard a bit more of the overall weight! Most of the toiletry and “admin” items are in my pack, while Richard is carrying the technology and connectivity equipment.

After 10 days into the trip we haven’t really identified anything that we shouldn’t have packed. We’ve been able to do laundry once a week and cycle through our clothes with enough to spare in the event of a downpour (yes, it’s happened more than once in this tropical climate during rainy season!). The running gear is a bit challenging as we’re having to run through each set twice before laundry day. I have more clothes than Richard, so I may need to trim down as we go if I find I’m not using everything regularly.

We’ve identified a few things that we should’ve packed: small multi-tool with knife and bottle opener, electrolyte replacement capsules (we’re sweating a lot more in the hotter climate), elastic ther-a-band for stretching and exercise, and an extra pair of shorts. Maybe we’ll pick up these items along the way somewhere (some will be easier to procure than others!).

I’m sure that we’ll revisit this topic after a few months to determine if there’s anything we need to remove and send home or gift to someone in the local community. We’re also getting better at packing efficiently so that the weight is well distributed and to ensure that everything goes in the pack without the need for additional carry bags. We tie our shoes to the the outside of the pack as they’re pretty dirty and often wet! This frees up quite a bit of space in the inside of the pack. We’ve also employed the help of stuff sacks to help us compress those items that are not used as often (like the cooler weather gear).

Bev’s packing list:

Running gear

• 3 x running shorts
• 2 x running bras
• 2 x tank bras
• 3 x running singlets
• 1 x light shell running jacket
• Long running pants
• 5 x pairs running/walking socks
• 1 x running gloves
• 1 x running cap
• 1 x hydration running vest
• 1 x running hydration reservoir
• 1 x personal item pouch
• 2 x 12oz handheld running bottles

Clothes

• 2 x bikinis
• 1 x sarong
• 2 x casual shorts
• 2 x tshirts
• 1 x tank top
• 3 x halter tshirts
• 3 x blouses
• 2 x casual dresses
• 6 x underwear
• 2 x soft bras
• 2 x underwire bras
• 1 x puffy jacket
• 1 x cargo pants
• 1 x jeans
• 1 x long sleeve technical shirt
• 1 x long sleeve tshirt
• 1 x microfleece
• 1 x fleece gloves
• 1 x toque
• 1 x waterproof shell jacket
• 1 x fabric belt
• 1 x bandana
• 1 x Buff headband

Accessories / living items

• 1 x sleeping bag liner
• 1 x travel towel
• 1 x length of thin cord for washing line
• 8 x pegs
• 1 x fabric shopping tote
• 1 x padlock
• 5 x small mesh bags
• 1 x stuff sack
• 1 x compression stuff sack
• 3 x pens
• 1 x small notebook
• 1 x in-pack hydration reservoir
• 2 x sleep masks
• 1 x small tin with simple jewellery items
• Malaria and tummy trouble meds
• 100 x water purification tablets
• 36 x tampons
• 4 x Vega One chocolate shake sachets
• 6 x Vega Sport Protein chocolate shake sachets
• 1 x travel size hand wipes
• 1 x travel size hand sanitizer
• 250 x EatRunSee contact cards

Travel items

• Passport
• Cash
• Travel insurance wallet card
• Bank and credit cards
• Drivers license
• Travel wallet
• Fake wallet with expired credit card

Technology

• 1 x iPhone (unlocked)
• 1 x headphones
• 1 x iPad
• 1 x running watch
• 1 x headlamp

Footwear

• 1 x pair flipflops
• 2 x pairs running shoes
• 1 x pair trail running shoes
• 1 x pair sandals

Toiletries

• 1 x toiletry bag
• 1 x soap bar
• 3 x moisturizer tubs
• 1 x face scrub
• 1 x toothbrush
• 1 x travel size toothpaste
• 1 x floss
• 1 x eye cream
• 1 x face wash
• 1 x ziplock with qtips
• 1 x razor
• 2 x razor blade refills (8 total)
• 1 x tweezers
• 1 x nail clippers
• 2 x small nail files
• 1 x travel size deodorant crystal

Richard’s packing list:

Running gear

• 4 x running shorts
• 4 x running singlets
• 1 x light shell running jacket
• 4 x pairs running/walking socks
• Long running pants
• 1 x running gloves
• 1 x running cap
• 1 x hydration running vest
• 1 x running hydration reservoir
• 1 x personal item pouch
• 2 x 12oz handheld running bottles
• 20 x Clif Shot running gels
• Running maintenance items (golf ball, tennis ball and myofascial release stick roller for rolling out muscles after running)

Clothes

• 1 x casual shorts
• 1 x bathing suit
• 3 x technical shirts (1 short sleeve / 2 long sleeve)
• 1 x button up short sleeve shirt
• 4 x underwear
• 1 x cargo pants
• 1 x puffy jacket
• 1 x microfleece
• 1 x fleece gloves
• 1 x toque
• 1 x bandana
• 1 x Buff headband

Accessories / living items

• 1 x mosquito net
• 1 x first aid kit
• 1 x sleeping bag liner
• 1 x travel towel
• 1 x fabric shopping tote
• 1 x padlock
• 1 x small mesh bag
• 1 x stuff sack
• 1 x compression stuff sack
• 1 x in-pack hydration reservoir
• 8 x Clif energy bars
• 4 x Hammer energy bars
• 1 x day backpack
• 1 x travel size hand wipes
• 1 x travel size hand sanitizer
• 250 x EatRunSee contact cards

Travel items

• Passport
• Cash
• Bank and credit cards
• Drivers license
• 1 x travel wallet
• Fake wallet with expired credit card

Technology

• 1 x iPhone (unlocked)
• 1 x headphones
• 1 x MacBook Air (13-inch) with soft travel case
• 1 x running watch
• 1 x running watch charger
• 2 x iPad / iPhone chargers and cables
• 1 x MacBook charger and cable
• 1 x camera and case
• 1 x camera charger and cable
• 1 x extra camera battery
• 1 x GoPro micro video camera plus cables and head mount
• 1 x headlamp and charger
• Assorted international plug adapters

Footwear

• 1 x pair flipflops
• 2 x pairs running shoes
• 1 x pair trail running shoes
• 1 x pair sandals

Toiletries

• 1 x toiletry bag
• 1 x soap bar
• 1 x toothbrush
• 1 x travel size toothpaste
• 1 x floss
• 1 x face wash
• 1 x ziplock with qtips
• 1 x sunblock cream 30SPF
• 1 x sunblock powder 30SPF
• 3 x travel-size shampoo
• 2 x travel-size body wash